Tanzania - Safari

Hamjambo,

We have just returned from the most unexpectedly amazing safari! I say unexpectedly, because I didn't have high expectations for the trip, it was simply a way to pass the weekend. A budget camping safari arranged by a tiny local company. In fact, it turned out to be fantastic! Ten of us took two trucks across Tanzania to the Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara (about 5 hours from our home). The drive itself was worth the trip - we left our corn plants and banana fields, travelled through flat, arid savannah and then found ourselves surrounded by lush mountains and rainforests. It was a fascinating taste of Africa - busy streets, colourful clothes, goats wandering, Maasai warriors on bikes, beautiful gardens and sadly, the ever present poverty.

We entered the Ngogorongo Crater, passing baboons along the way. We chose the budget option and I'm glad we did - our campsite was right on the rim of the crater, with fabulous views. We had a great night chatting under the stars, and trying to keep warm (it's the coldest place in Africa and was bitter). In the night we were visited by warthogs and a herd of zebra! The next day we took the steep track down into the crater and were rewarded with sightings of more zebra, wildebeast, hippos, hyenas, lions and elephants!

On Sunday we went to Lake Manyara where we saw elephants again. This time the herd totally surrounded our truck and simply carried on their leisurely business as if we weren't there - sucking up water, dusting themselves, eating, scratching. There was even a tiny 6 month old baby. I felt really privileged to be a part of it. We were also surrounded by giraffes which was pretty exciting. I had no idea that the animals would come so close.

We finished our weekend with a trip to a Maasai village which was quite disappointing as it felt like a tourist sideshow rather than a genuine insight into their culture. We felt exploitative and exploited in turn. However, we did get to see inside a Boma (house) which was the most cramped, dark and claustrophobic place I have ever been. Whole families like in this tiny cupboard like space, with all their goats! I would like to learn more about the fascinating Maasai culture, but sadly this was not the opportunity. The level of poverty was also difficult to see.

The poverty here is not always initially evident - until you realise that some people are surviving on around 80p a day, and that although the cost of living is cheaper, it is not that cheap! The people we have met and stories we have heard really bring home the huge difference between Western and African standards. Women are still often seen as the property of their husband or father, and girls still miss out on education. HIV/AIDs is also very prevalent and continues to carry a huge stigma. It seems that lack of education contributes to a whole range of problems. We have been lucky enough to listen to various speakers including a lawyer from a women's rights movement.


We are only just scraping the surface but I could go on forever! I won't because there's a queue for the internet but I'll be back when I can.

Missing you and hope you're all well.

Kwa heri xx

PS. Thanks for all the comments - it's nice to know that someone is reading my ramblings! xx